Day 9: Going Home

Scarlett and I with the Imbabura Volcano in the background.

What a finish to this adventure!  We traveled about an hour northwest from Quito to Cotacachi and then Otavalo .  The areas are home to many of the indigenous peoples that branch from the Incas.  We got to have a more in depth experience with the rich culture here in Ecuador through the music and textiles.

Stopping to try cherimoya at a fruit stand.

Along the way we passed so many stands on the side of the road selling fruit.  Fresh fruit stands are literally everywhere and the fruit was so cheap! You can get whole bags of oranges for around $1 USD.  We stopped over at one and tried cherimoya, also dubbed the "custard apple" by Mark Twain.  The flesh was so sweet and all but melts in your mouth.  Be careful of the seeds though, they are massive and can also be poisonous if opened.

All of the fruit I have had on this trip was so much better than at home since it was closer to the source or origin.  They had so much more flavor.  And the avocados...  So creamy and delicious!  Too bad Scarlett wasn't nearly as enthusiastic as I was.

One of many different places to buy roses.

There were also a ton of rose stands too.  Only the most beautiful of the roses grown in Ecuador are exported all across the world, Russia being one of the largest importers.  The "rejected" roses stay in Ecuador, but their version of a bad rose must be way different than mine.  I don't think I came across one during my entire stay that wasn't more beautiful or fragrant than the ones back at home.  Our lovely tour guide even stopped to buy as all a rose!  They were only $5 USD for a whole dozen!  I so wish we could have brought them back with us on the plane.

Our beautiful roses!

Hosteria Miralago

On our way to Cotacachi, we stopped at Hosteria Miralago which has beautiful views of the Imbabura Volcano and San Pablo Lake.  The volcano is inactive as it has not erupted in thousands of years, but it is not considered to be extinct.  There is a restaurant and cafe in side as well as a little shop where you can find all kinds of wool clothing, leather goods, Ecuadorian hats, beaded jewelry, and other handmade trinkets.  The shop was a little bit higher than the markets we visited in Otavalo, but the quality was much higher.

The view of Imbabura Volcano from Miralago.

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Fun Fact:  The Cayambe Volcano in Ecuador is the highest point on the equator and the only point of the equator that contains snow.

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Cotacachi

Cotacachi is known as the "Leather Town" and is notably famous for its leather artisans and goods.  All sorts of shops line the main road, Calle 10 de Agusto, offering different kinds of specialty leather shoes, bags, wallets, and clothing.   There are so many shops at all different price points that it is almost a little overwhelming.  Scarlett ended up buying a small leather coin purse that looked like a cat and I picked up a bright yellow leather purse with floral embroidery in one of the boutiques.

Trying cuy at lunch.

While in Cotacachi we stopped at La Marquesa for lunch.  Sorry in advance to all you guinea pig owners!  Earlier in the trip, some of us had been asking about having the opportunity to try cuy, or guinea pig.  Unlike pet guinea pigs in the U.S., cuy is considered a delicacy.  Their large size and abundance made them the primary source of meat in the highlands of Ecuador, Peru, and Columbia before the introduction of cattle.

I always try to make a point of trying new and local foods wherever I go.  It is important to always keep an open mind and remember that even though a cultural difference might seem weird, it is someone else's normal.  However, I don't think I was quite prepared for the culture shock of having a deep friend guinea pig served up on a plate!  I still tried it, along with a few others from our group, but Scarlett was having none of it and stuck to her fries.

The view of the Imbabura Volcano while back on the road.

Otavalo

On our way back south to Otavalo, we stopped for a visit to a local musicians home where he showed us how the reed pipes are made.  We got to watch a demonstration of how the reed pipes are made, played, and a demonstration of the many different instruments across South America and what instruments are most popular where.  Music is very important, and it is especially important that a man learns to play all of these instruments so that he can pay for the woman he wants to marry.  He and his children played together for us and they were fantastic!

Learning how to make reed pipes.

The wall of instruments.

One of the weaving looms.

In Otavalo we stopped at the Artesanía El Gran Cóndor and learned about the different fibers used in textiles and how they are dyed. Sheep, llama, and alpaca fibers are brushed, pulled, and then dyed different colors using different combinations of plants.  The woman demonstrating for our group also showed us how the tapestries and different things are made using both the sitting and standing looms and how long it takes to make different size pieces.  The wraps used to tie the hair back can take around 2 hours to make, and some of the wall tapestries can take months!

The highlight of my day was finding a beautiful handwoven tapestry made from Alpaca fibers.  It has cats on it.  I’m glad to know that there is something for us cat lady’s all over the world!

A wall tapestry that was for sale.

Learning about what plants are used as dyes.

Scarlett in her new woven shawl and hair wrap.

Before heading back to Quito to catch our flight, we stopped at the Otavalo Markets.  It is a massive outdoor market place packed with colorful artisan vendors.  Most of the market primarily sits in Plaza de Ponchos, but the surrounding streets are packed with shops and restaurants.  You can find a little bit of everything in the maze of stalls including Ecuadorian hats, woven textiles, leather goods, carved knickknacks, and jewelry.  Scattered among the vendors are common souvenirs as well, so there is a little bit of something there for everyone.  The competition for business is high, so almost everyone was willing to barter to get sales.

Learning to wrap our hair with woven straps.

One thing to note is the traditional clothing worn by both men and women natives in the highlands.  The clothing of the indigenous in Otavalo is distinctive with men wearing white knee-length trousers, a blue poncho, and a felt hat or fedora with their hair in a long braid down the back known as a shimba.

Women typically wear a white blouse that can be embroidered or left plain, a long blue-colored skirt, a shawl, jewelry, and sometimes a fedora.  The shawl can signify a women is single when tied over one shoulder, or married if tied over both shoulders.  It can also be folded in different ways to be used as a hat if needed.  The sun was a central part of Inca culture and way of life, so it only makes since that the women wear necklaces of yellow or gold beads to represent the sun.  To ward off evil spirits and protect against the evil eye, red bracelets are worn around the wrists.  Woven hair wraps are also used to keep the hair back at the nape of the neck.

We headed back to Quito by way of Guachala Cangahua and had some spectacular views of the volcano.  The clouds had been rolling around the peaks all day, but finally they moved long enough to get a clear look.  The soil on the volcano is fertile which is why it is so green.  

The Imbabura Volcano.

Our last meal in Ecuador was at the wonderful La Casa del Bosque Lounge Bar.  It's a small, family owned place that is tucked just off the main road.  Our little private dinner was such marvelous way to end this trip!

Until next time, Ecuador. XOXO

Our table in the La Casa del Bosque Lounge Bar.